Have you ever finished your eye makeup, looked in the mirror and thought…
Why do my eyes somehow look SMALLER?! You’re not imagining it.
As we get older, the skin around our eyes changes. We may notice more hooding, fine lines, changes in our crease and less visible lid space. The makeup techniques we used in our 20s and 30s may suddenly not have the same effect.
But here’s the good news: You don’t need more eye makeup. You need better placement.
As a certified makeup artist, one of my favorite things to teach women over 40 is how a few tiny changes in eyeshadow and eyeliner placement can visually open, brighten and lift the eyes. In this tutorial, I’m going to show you exactly how I use:
- A mid-tone eyeshadow in and above the crease
- A deeper shade on the outer corner
- A lighter shade across the lid
- Highlight under the brow and on the inner corner
- Eyeliner only on the outer portion of the eye
- Concealer to create a clean, lifted edge
I’ve also created a coordinating YouTube tutorial so you can watch me demonstrate each step and recreate the look along with me. Let’s make those eyes POP!
Why Can Eyes Start to Look Smaller as We Age?
Our eye shape doesn’t necessarily change completely when we turn 40, but the skin surrounding our eyes does change over time. You may notice that:
- Your upper eyelid looks more hooded
- You have less visible lid space
- The crease isn’t as defined as it used to be
- Your outer corners appear slightly lower
- Fine lines and texture are more noticeable
- Heavy eyeliner seems to overwhelm your eyes
This is why simply repeating the exact makeup routine you’ve used for 20 years may not give you the result you want anymore. And that’s okay! Our faces change, so our makeup techniques can change with them. The goal isn’t to hide your age. It’s to understand how placement, light and shadow can enhance the beautiful eyes you have now.
Step 1: Apply Your Mid-Tone Eyeshadow With Your Eyes OPEN
This might be the most important trick in the entire tutorial.
Take a fluffy blending brush and a mid-tone eyeshadow…something slightly deeper than your natural skin tone.
Then…
Keep your eye OPEN while you apply it.
Why?
Because when you close your eye and place shadow directly into your natural crease, some or all of that color can disappear once you open your eyes, especially if you have hooded or deep-set eyes.
Instead, look straight ahead into your mirror. Apply your mid-tone shade in and slightly above your natural crease so you can still see the color while your eye is open.
Use your fluffy brush to blend the color back and forth, keeping everything soft. This creates the illusion of a more defined crease while giving your eye more visible space.
Think UP…not down.
We want the eye to look open and lifted.
Have Hooded or Deep-Set Eyes?
I have more detailed tutorials specifically for those eye shapes.
Eyeshadow Tips for Deep Set Hooded Eyes →
Mastering Makeup Techniques for Mesmerizing Deep Set Eyes →
Those posts dive deeper into placement techniques specifically for those eye shapes.
Step 2: Add a Darker Shade to the Outer Corner
Now we’re going to create dimension.
Choose an eyeshadow that’s slightly darker than your mid-tone shade and place it on the outer corner of the eye. But here’s where placement matters.
Rather than blending the shadow down or creating a round shape around the eye, blend your darker shade:
UP + OUT.
This visually pulls the eye upward and outward.
You don’t need a ton of dark eyeshadow to create definition. In fact, too much dark shadow can sometimes have the opposite effect and make mature eyes appear smaller.
Start with a small amount of product and gradually build the depth. It’s much easier to add more eyeshadow than to spend five minutes trying to undo a smoky eye that got a little too enthusiastic.
Step 3: Use a Lighter Shade on the Eyelid
Now that we’ve created depth around the crease and outer corner, let’s bring light back into the eye.
Apply a lighter eyeshadow across the visible portion of your lid. This creates contrast between the deeper outer corner and the lighter lid, which helps make the eye appear more open. You can choose a matte shade, satin finish or soft shimmer depending on your preference.
And yes…Women over 40 can wear shimmer! You don’t have to banish anything remotely shiny from your makeup bag the second you hit 40. I personally love a soft, sophisticated shimmer that catches the light without looking chunky or glittery. The key is choosing a formula you love and placing it intentionally.
Step 4: Highlight the Inner Corner
This is such a tiny step, but it makes a surprisingly big difference.
Take a light highlight shade (think subtle light shimmer)and place a small amount on the inner corner of the eye.
That little touch of brightness reflects light and helps the eye look more awake and open. This is especially helpful if your eyes tend to look tired or if the inner corners naturally appear darker. You don’t need a giant patch of sparkly highlighter. A tiny amount is enough. We’re going for bright-eyed and awake, not tiny disco ball.
Step 5: Add a Subtle Highlight Under the Brow
Next, use that same lighter shade directly underneath the brow.
Focus primarily underneath the arch rather than applying a thick stripe of bright eyeshadow underneath the entire eyebrow.
This creates another strategic point of light and can help visually lift the brow area.
Blend everything so there isn’t an obvious line between your highlight and crease color.
Remember: the overall effect should be soft.
We want people noticing your eyes…not trying to figure out where one eyeshadow color ends and another begins.
Step 6: Change Where You Apply Eyeliner on Mature Eyes
Now let’s talk about eyeliner for mature eyes, because this is where I see women accidentally making their eyes look smaller all the time. If your goal is to make your eyes look bigger, you don’t necessarily need a thick line of dark eyeliner from the inner corner all the way across the eye. That dark line can visually take away some of your already-limited lid space.
Instead, try this: Apply eyeliner only to the outer portion of your upper lash line.
Start around the outer third of your eye and keep the liner close to your lashes.
You can gradually make it slightly thicker toward the outer corner. This gives your lashes definition while keeping the inner portion of the eye lighter and more open. For many mature or hooded eyes, this can be much more flattering than surrounding the entire eye with dark liner.
Step 7: Direct Your Eyeliner OUT Instead of Down
Just like our darker eyeshadow, we want our eyeliner for mature eyes to encourage the eye outward and upward.
When you reach the outer corner, avoid following a downward angle. Instead, extend the liner slightly outward in the direction you want your eye to appear lifted. This doesn’t have to be a dramatic wing. Even a tiny change in direction can affect the overall shape of your finished eye makeup.
And if both eyes don’t match perfectly? Welcome to being a human with two different eyes. Which brings us to one of my favorite tricks…
Step 8: Clean Up Your Eyeshadow With Concealer
If your outer eyeshadow got a little messy, don’t start over!
Grab your concealer.
Use a small amount underneath the outer edge of your eyeshadow and gently clean up the shape. Angle the concealer upward toward the tail of your brow to create a cleaner, more lifted edge. This is one of my favorite makeup artist tricks because you can blend freely first and perfect the shape afterward.
You can also use a little concealer around the outer eye to clean up eyeliner or any fallen eyeshadow. It’s basically the makeup version of an eraser. And sometimes we all need an eraser.
The Biggest Mistake When Trying to Make Mature Eyes Look Bigger
One of the biggest mistakes I see is assuming:
More definition = bigger eyes.
So we add more dark shadow. More eyeliner. More color underneath the eye. And suddenly we’ve created a dark frame around the entire eye…which can visually make it look smaller.
Instead, think about contrast and strategic placement. We’re putting darkness where we want depth and lift:
Crease + outer corner + outer lash line.
And we’re putting light where we want openness:
Lid + inner corner + underneath the brow.
Dark creates depth. Light brings an area forward.
Once you understand that basic concept, eye makeup gets SO much easier.
Should Women Over 40 Stop Wearing Eyeliner?
Absolutely not! I don’t believe in arbitrary makeup rules based on age. If you love black eyeliner all around your eyes, wear it.
But if your specific goal is to make your eyes look bigger, brighter or more lifted, changing your eyeliner placement may help you get closer to that effect.
Try using less liner and concentrating it on the outer portion of your eye. You may be surprised by how much more open your eyes look.
What Eyeshadow Colors Make Your Eyes Look Bigger?
Placement matters more than choosing one magical eyeshadow color.
A simple three-color approach works beautifully:
Mid-tone: creates definition through the crease.
Dark shade: creates depth and lift on the outer corner.
Light shade: brings brightness to the lid and inner corner.
Once you’ve mastered the placement, you can customize the actual colors to flatter your eyes. And I’ve got you covered there too!
If you want to know which eyeshadow shades will make your specific eye color pop, check out my eye-color eyeshadow guides here:
You can use the same technique I’m teaching in this post and simply swap in the colors that best complement your eyes.
My Favorite Eyeshadow Palettes and Brushes for Mature Eyes
You don’t need 47 eyeshadow shades and a drawer full of brushes to create beautiful eye makeup after 40. A few good-quality eyeshadows and the right brushes can make your makeup SO much easier.
When I’m choosing eyeshadow for mature eyes, I look for formulas that are smooth, blendable and buildable. I want color that blends easily without looking patchy or emphasizing texture. I also love having a mix of finishes. Matte shades are great for creating definition through the crease and outer corner, while a soft satin or finely milled shimmer can add beautiful light and dimension to the lid.
Here are a few of my favorite eyeshadow palettes:
PATRICK TA EYESHADOW PALETTE
Patrick Ta’s eyeshadows are so pigmented and creamy! Each palette is curated with gorgeous shades that work well together.
MAKEUP BY MARIO EYESHADOW PALETTE
Makeup by Mario knows how to do neutrals! You can’t go wrong with the shades in this popular palette!
MAC COSMETICS EYESHADOW PALETTE
A mix between shimmer and matte, this palette is so beautiful for everyday and for dressier days!
SEINT EYESHADOW PALETTE
Build your own custom eyeshadow palette with exactly what you want!
The Best Eyeshadow Brushes for This Look
Your brushes matter almost as much as your eyeshadow!
You don’t need an enormous brush collection, but there are three basic eye brushes I recommend having:
A fluffy blending brush: This is the brush I use to apply that mid-tone shade in and slightly above the crease. A soft, fluffy brush diffuses the color so you don’t end up with harsh lines.
A smaller blending or detail brush: Use this for the deeper shade on the outer corner. The smaller size gives you more control over where you place the color before blending it up and out.
A flat eyeshadow brush: This is perfect for pressing your lighter shade onto the lid. A flatter brush allows you to concentrate the color exactly where you want the brightness.
If you’re just getting started, don’t overcomplicate it. A great palette plus three good brushes is more useful than owning dozens of products you don’t know how to use.
And remember: the products are only part of the equation. Placement is what creates the magic. Even the prettiest eyeshadow palette won’t make your eyes look bigger if all the color is pulling the eye down.
Master the technique first, and then have fun experimenting with different colors and finishes!
Watch: How to Make Mature Eyes Look Bigger With Makeup
Sometimes eye makeup techniques are SO much easier to understand when you can actually watch someone do them.
That’s why I created a coordinating YouTube tutorial showing you this entire process step by step.
You’ll see exactly where I place the crease color, how high I blend it, where I add my darker outer-corner shade, how I apply eyeliner and how I use concealer to clean everything up.
Grab your makeup bag and do it along with me!
And if you’re still learning the basics of eyeshadow application, start with my:
Eyeshadow Tutorial for Beginners →
Then come back here and practice these placement tricks.
FAQ: How to Make Eyes Look Bigger With Makeup
- How do you make mature eyes look bigger with makeup? Use strategic light and dark eyeshadow placement. Apply a mid-tone shade in and slightly above the crease, a deeper shade on the outer corner blended upward and outward, and a lighter shade across the lid. Highlighting the inner corner and using eyeliner primarily on the outer lash line can also create a more open appearance.
- Where should women over 40 apply eyeliner? If your goal is to make your eyes look bigger, try concentrating eyeliner on the outer portion of the upper lash line instead of drawing a thick line across the entire lid. Keep the line close to your lashes and direct the outer edge slightly outward or upward.
- Should mature eyes wear eyeliner on the bottom? You can wear bottom eyeliner at any age, but dark liner surrounding the entire eye can sometimes make the eye appear smaller. If you want a softer, more open look, experiment with using less dark liner underneath the eye or concentrating definition toward the outer corner.
- Where should eyeshadow go on mature or hooded eyes? Try applying your crease shade while looking straight into a mirror with your eyes open. Place the color in and slightly above your natural crease so it’s still visible when your eyes are open. Blend deeper shades toward the outer corner and upward rather than downward.
- Does dark eyeshadow make eyes look smaller? It can if it’s applied heavily around the entire eye. Dark eyeshadow creates depth, so strategically placing it on the outer corner can help create dimension. Pair it with lighter shades on the lid and inner corner to maintain brightness and openness.
- Can women over 40 wear shimmer eyeshadow? Yes! Mature women can absolutely wear shimmer eyeshadow. I prefer soft satin or finely milled shimmer formulas rather than chunky glitter. Applying a lighter shimmer strategically to the lid or inner corner can beautifully reflect light.
- How can I make hooded eyes look more lifted? Keep your eye open when applying your crease shade so the color remains visible. Blend your outer-corner eyeshadow up and out, concentrate eyeliner toward the outer portion of the eye and use concealer to clean up the outer edge at an upward angle.
- How do you fix messy eyeshadow edges? Use a small amount of concealer to clean underneath the outer edge of your eyeshadow. Create a subtle upward angle toward the tail of your eyebrow, then gently blend the concealer into your complexion. This creates a cleaner, more lifted-looking edge without starting your eye makeup over.
You Don’t Need More Makeup…You Need Better Placement
If your eye makeup hasn’t been looking quite the way you want lately, don’t assume you need to buy an entirely new makeup bag. And definitely don’t assume you suddenly can’t wear eyeliner or eyeshadow because you’re over 40.
Your technique may simply need to evolve with your face. Keep your eye open when you’re placing your crease color.
Bring your darker shade up and out.
Add light to the lid and inner corner.
Keep your eyeliner concentrated toward the outer corner.
And when things get messy?
Grab the concealer.
These are tiny changes.
But when you put them together, they can make your eyes look brighter, more open and beautifully defined…without piling on more makeup. Because makeup after 40 isn’t about covering yourself up. It’s about learning how to enhance what you already have. And those beautiful eyes deserve to be seen.
Here are other blogposts you might enjoy:
- The Complete Olive Rose Makeup Guide: Shades, Finishes & What to Buy First
- The Best Needle-Free Skincare for Aging Gracefully
- Is Oliveda Worth It for Mature Skin? An Honest Guide Before You Buy
- At Home Microneedling for Mature Skin — A Licensed Esthetician’s Complete Guide to the Seranova System
- Best Beauty Products to Pack for Hot Weather Travel Over 40
- The Ultimate Travel Toiletries Checklist for Women (Carry-On Friendly)
About the Author
JoEllen is a licensed aesthetician, certified makeup artist, and certified John Maxwell coach, speaker, and trainer. She works with women helping them look and feel confident. She loves teaching women simple beauty techniques so they can feel empowered to try it at home. Her motto is that when you look and feel good, you do good!
*This post contains affiliate links. If you choose to purchase an item featured, I receive a small portion from the sale. Thank you! It does not affect you at all.
